As you drive down the Old Daman road, the city landscape gives way to coastal towns and the sweet, refreshing water of the land turns brackish. For over 200 years, the residents of Gujarat have learned to balance nature’s shortfall with culinary ingenuity. The chai they drink is a robust brew, sweet, boiled slowly with milk and richly flavoured with spices.

Directions (6oz, 180ml)

Add two parts water (4oz, 120ml) to one part milk (2oz, 60ml) and bring to a boil. Then add 1 tsp of tea and 1 tbsp sugar. Stir and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, till coppery brown. Strain.